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"People ask for the nostalgia," the cook said, stirring a pot like he was reading the future. "They want the packaged memory—crisp edges, predictable salt. But that's not the taste that sticks. The thing that sticks is the aftertaste. The thing they won't put on commercials."

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"People ask for the nostalgia," the cook said, stirring a pot like he was reading the future. "They want the packaged memory—crisp edges, predictable salt. But that's not the taste that sticks. The thing that sticks is the aftertaste. The thing they won't put on commercials."